Well first off, great site, great tools, I love the setup tips at the top. Now, I am sorry, but I don't use the Default setups that this team hands out. I use a totally different default setup and I use it for EVERY track. Well, heres the list:
Step 1: Gears
I start off by finding the max speed I can get and setup my gears, once I find out my 4th gear, and just barely red line entering the corner, I set up my 1st gear to where it tops out at 80 MPH, and then setup the 2nd and 3rd gear by visual on the graph.
Step 2: Springs
I go into the chassis, I set up the springs, I put the Right side springs at a dead mark (like Front 800 and back 500). I put the left side springs to 50 lbs more than the right sides (5 clicks) and I do that to keep the setup tight and where it wont spin out. Now if You want my default setup, it already has that for you. Well, you need the right side springs as low as they can go without bottoming out. To do so, start out with the rear springs... use the 8's tool, go by 8 clicks, so decrease both rear springs by 8 clicks until you bottom out. It is important that you decrease both springs, just to keep the cars balance. If you start out bottoming out, increase the springs... but I doubt you will. Well, do the exact same to the front. Now, if you cant seem to keep the car low without bottoming out, use the ride height to help you. you will mostly feel this in the right front. Don't go higher than 5 inches on the ride height. Try to keep the car balanced with the left front just one click lower and the right rear the exact same clicks. After you got the Right sides to the lowest they can go, use the 8 tool and get the left sides to where they feel comfortable to you. Do one spring at a time.
Step 3: Tire Pressure
The tire pressure is essential to the car... use those 3 numbers in the garage on each square, those are tire temperatures. You need those numbers to go from left to right, greatest to least... well, what you need to look at is those boxes go with each side that the settings are on. Now those three numbers are going to be the key to tire pressure. For example TIRE TEMP 249 219 234, increase the pressure to where the it looks like 249 242 234. Use the 8 tool, You want the temps greatest to least, again. THATS THE KEY!!!
Step 4: Camber
Right Sides need to be negative and left sides need to be positive. I am still working out on how to deal with the Camber. Well, first you want to start out with probably Low numbers with the camber, except the Left Front can be 8.0. Now, those Tire Temperatures are a key part to this. You want to where you can use the Left number and the Right number, subract it, and it will equal to about 5 to 20. Refer to the Setup Guide at the bottom on the keys toward what you change to get the right number.
Halfway there, keep trucking!!!
Step 5: Weight Distribution (Front to rear Weight)
Keep running laps and getting those tire temps, well to get some consistency and some speed, you need some weight transfer. Well, you need the weight to be the same (or at least close) from the front to the rear. So if you have the tires hotter in the front, shift some weight to the rear. If the rear is the hottest, shift some weight to the front. Again, use the 8 tool. Now, if the front is the hottest, the car says it's tight, but you might not feel it. If you feel it, good for you, you're in luck. If you don't, we'll get to that later. Same, if the rear is hottest, the car feels loose but you probably don't.
Step 6: Track Bar
Track bar is sometimes the key towards speed. To keep speed through the corners, the rear needs to keep it's distance. Start with the left sides and use the 8 tool. When you spin out once, then narrow the number to when you don't spin, or even get close, whatever feels good to you. Same to the Right, most of the time, the right will be higher most of the time.
Step 7: Caster
I never figured this out, but I have been getting good results with Left side 1 and right side 3.
Step 8: Brakes
Brakes are a keep part to the sort tracks. Brake bias is like weight distribution. More the first number, the more pressure will be added to it, the left over will be to the rear. If you are going straight when entering a turn while braking, then you're locking up the tires, which means there's too much pressure to the front, bring some to the rear using the 8 tool. And if you're spinning when going into a turn while braking, then you have too much brake in the rear, increase using the 8 tool.
Step 9: Sway Bar
Sway bar is used when you're setup is nearly complete and could use some fine tuning. Increasing the Front Sway Bar will tighten the front end, decreasing will loosen. Rear Sway Bar, increasing the rear sway bar will loosen up the rear end, and decreasing it will tighten it, maybe detached will work.
Step 10: Toe
I don't know a thing about toe
That's pretty much all I know, and I know I am not the best, but it works for me and I hope it will work for you!!!
Notes
Explaining "The 8 Tool":
The 8 tool is used to cross out the bad adjustments, heres an example to it being faster than using 10
8s
1. 50-100
2. 50-58
3. 50-54
4. 50-52
5. 51
10s
1. 50-100
2. 50-60
3. 50-55
4. 50-53
5. 50-52
6. 51
The Setup Guides.
http://www.racelinecentral.com/garage101.pdfhttp://www.racelinecentral.com/RacingSetupGuide.htmlhttp://www.eaglessportsclub.com/download/Car.Setups.Guides.rarE-Mail me or reply here for questions
Bhasting9@aol.com
